Scandinavia Journey 2011

View Full Size Travel Map at Travellerspoint

Stockholm Instagram Diary

Snapshot from Stockholm

 Hiding under a statue, Stockholm City Hall, Stockholm, Sweden

What do I buy in Scandinavia: Other things

So besides buying amazing totes in each city, I did actually purchase other things.

Once again, I tried very hard not to buy things that looked like souvenirs. I wanted to buy things that were functional, memorable, and cute.

1. Vintage clothing

 Iceland in particular, has some amazing vintage stores. Not only were they abundant, but also extremely cheap. I brought a tiny suitcase with me, so I really had to hold buying everything in the store.

A dress way too summery to ever wear in Iceland.
Costs only $25 USD from a store in Reykjavik

My splurge in Oslo. Almost $80 USD from a
 vintage store in Grünerløkka.

2. Stationary

There was so much cute stationary in Scandinavia. I have too much of it as it is, but I couldn't resist a few more items.

Ording & Reda Pen case from Sweden

Notebook and pens at Tiger at Reykjavik.

3. Accessories

Just a few cute impulse buys from various places.

Barrett from the gift shop of the Louisiana Museum;
Ring from a thrift store in Reykjavik.

What do I buy in Scandinavia: Origins fo the Tote Craze

In a follow up to the  post I did on Japan, I thought it might be good to talk about some of the things I bought on my trip to Scandinavia last year. 

I basically shopped my way through Scandinavia. No, it wasn't that bad,  but pretty much after one day in Iceland it became very obvious that there would be a reoccurring theme through my shopping adventure: totes. They were everywhere! And in so many cool designs! At such affordable prices! I decided that it would be cool to buy a tote (or two) from each city to commemorate my experience there. Not only did they fold up nicely in my tiny suitcase, but I also used them to haul things around. See, practical and memorable.

Ordning & Reda tote, Stockholm, Sweden: $15

Marimekko tote, Helsinki, Finland: $15

Astrup Fearnley Museet Gift shop tote, Oslo, Norway: $10

Tiger tote, Reykjavik, Iceland: $3

Torpedo tote, Oslo, Norway: $5

Design Week tote, Copenhagen, Denmark: Free

Tiger Tote, Copenhagen, Denmark: $3

Viking Ship Cruise: Stockholm to Helsinki

When it comes to traveling, there are two types of people: those who cruise, and those who do not. The people who go on cruises are distinct for a number of reasons. Primarily, they don’t seem to find anything embarrassing about being a tourist. They have no shame in proudly dawning their fanny packs, sun hats, maps, cameras, and souvenir T-shirts. It even amazes me that they will wear a souvenir T-shirt from one trip, while they are vacationing on another trip. They are the type of people that want to go abroad, but don’t want any of the mess and stress that typically accompany foreign travel. They don’t want to worry about how to get around on the local transportation, what sights they will see, and where or what they will eat. A cruise provides them with all of the planned and packaged excitement, with none of the headache. 

I, on the other hand, find myself in the latter group: the non-cruisers. Among me are people who hate looking like tourists; we don’t linger around the hotel, we don’t go into souvenir shops, we memorize the subway map in our rooms before heading out, so as not to have to look at it at the station. No matter where we are, we always walk in briskly in a straight path, with that have that “I know exactly where I am going” look on our faces.

 

 

So why did I end up on a cruise? Me, of all people. Goddam Rick Steves is why. I hadn’t originally planned to go to Helsinki, but his guide to Scandinavia was full of praise for this tiny town, and after reading about it I wanted to go soooooo bad. I mean, when else am I going to be anywhere near Finland? Who knows. And out of all the options to get there, the cruise looked by far the coolest. The more I read about the ship, the more it sounded like a great interjection between trains and luggage-totting in the rest of Scandinavia. Casino, nightclub, duty-free shop, a handful of restaurants including a Smörgåsbord, and my own private hotel room on board the ship. Yep, no sleeping on the deck bench for me.

So I ended up on a two night cruise from Stockholm to Helsinki, and back. I booked with Viking, after comparing them to Sijia and finding that they were slightly cheaper and had a better dock location in Stockholm.

As the time drew nearer to cruise-city, I got more and more excited. This is going to be so romantic! Like that hand-on-the-steamy window scene from Titanic. Oh, if only I knew. 

                                                     

Upon first impression our room was quite nice. I booked  an extra-large room in the center of the ship, because I didn't care to spend the extra money on a window cabin (nor was it even worth it, because it was pitch black outside for most of the time). However, finding that we were located on the 11^th floor of the ship (the highest floor) was somewhat of a surprise. My thinking: at least if the ship sinks we’ll have the longest time above water, and thus the best chance of surviving. I know it sounds morbid, but I can’t help myself.

 

Then we head to the main deck for some drinks while watching the ship embark. Those were by far the cheapest cocktails in Scandinavia, and everyone knew it. The place was packed. I had never been so glad to spend $8 on a cocktail in my life. After $15-25 for a single drink in most bars around Scandinavia, you would be glad to spend $8 too.  Apparently the duty free policy extended beyond the souvenir shop, and included duty free cocktails in every bar.

drinks on the deck

strawberry daquiris 

complimentary champaign

After the deck party we washed up in the room and it was Smoreorg time! I booked the 7:30 seating because 5:30 seemed to damn early. As I piled five different kinds of caviar onto my plate, I thought, so this is must be the origin of the great and wonderful thing we know as all-you-can-eat dining. This is where it all began…ahhh…food coma. This is also where and how we met our spiritual guide to all things Scandinavia, the wonderful and mysterious John from  San Francisco. John sat across from us at our buffet table. Of course, it was assigned seating, so perhaps it was a carefully planned move by the host to group the only three Americans on this ship at one table….And speaking of being one of the only Americans, Rick Steves was right: it was about 40% Swedish, 50% Finnish, and 10% everyone else, mostly Chinese (in fact, Helsinki was loaded with Chinese…more on that later…)

round 1

round 2

cheese place

Everything was going well, until we got up to our rooms, by that point the boat was well into the Baltic Sea, and the sea was doing what it does best: rocking the shit out of our boat. 

From the 11^th floor it was hard to stand without swaying violently from one side to the other. If the police had come up to the 11^th floor and made me walk in straight line to test for alcohol intoxication, I would have surely failed due to the damn Baltic Sea. 

We tried to sit on the bed and watch some bad British made-for-TV movie, but the TV, which was bolted to the wall, began to sway back and forth so much that I felt like I was being hypnotized. That’s when we decided to just lay down and try to sleep. About twenty minutes later my partner starts puking like it’s someone's 21^st birthday. So much for the hand-on-the-steamy-window scene from Titanic.

Well, we made up for the last night’s Titanic-fail with SWEDISH MEATBALLS! By that time at least both of us had regained our appetites. 

We also tried the beef stew...mmmm...

The next morning we had the breakfast buffet, which was pleasant, but no where near as extravagant as dinner. 

My advice to all future travelers. Do the cruise. It’s wonderful. You’ll love it. But for the love of god, get a room on the lower level.

Skogskyrkogården / Woodland Cemetery, Stockholm, Sweden

To look upon the Woodland cemetery, one would never question why I’ve spent the better part of ten years photographing cemeteries. This is  one of those places where  unquestionable beauty dispels any hint of the darkness that so many people associate with cemeteries. It is truly a place of serenity, the kind of place you expect to find in a picture at the end of a fairy tale. The kind of place that must only exist in human imagination. I’m talking about Skogskyrkogården.  

This is probably the most stunning and surreal view in the cemetery, a gentle hills leading up to a group of trees, surrounded by an open sky.

But I almost missed this mother-of-all cemeteries. Really. I spent not a moment of time researching Stockholm before I left. I kind of just expected to find a local cemetery the way I find all cemeteries, by wondering around until one pops up in front of me. Thanks to fate and the kindness of strangers, I learned of the UNESCO Word Heritage site and devoted an entire day to it, which was hardly enough time.

 

John, the architect from San Francisco who I met randomly on a cruise to Helsinki, told us about Skogskyrkogården. John explained to us that the cemetery was constructed in the early twentieth century, and that its innovative design has been extremely influential to cemeteries all over the world. Most Western cemeteries are located on flat, open plots of land with few trees and minimal landscaping (this is in contrast to Eastern cemeteries, which are often located on steep hillsides). The tombs are planted in between narrow tree trunks, the hills rolls endlessly like waves on the surface of the ocean. There was no attempt to alter the natural beauty of the land to suit man’s needs. Instead, man came to a place of harmony with nature. 

I expect people come here am much for the beautiful landscape as they do for the cemetery. Rather, the cemetery and the landscape are inseparable, just as our lives are inseparable from nature.

To walk lengthwise from one end of the cemetery to the other takes around thirty minutes. Though the is kind of hard to determine because its almost impossible to walk straight through without stopping. Whether you get distracted by an unusual tombstone, or tree, or chapel, there is always something to look at on the way. 

This is a map of the Woodland Cemetery. It was quite huge. To walk lengthwise from the entrance to the opposite side took around thirty to forty minutes.

This is a photograph from the chapel near the main entrance.