Ketchup Flavor is Big Here

I thought the Japanese were the only ones who took American products and turned them on their heads with unique flavors. Wrong!
Check out these Ketchup flavored Pringles I found in the airport in Dubai.

And guess what?! The ketchup theme extends across boarders! I found Ketchup flavored cheetos in Pakistan! The back of the bag indicates that these cheetos were made in Pakistan (sorry Americans, you can't find them in the U.S.) and that they are halal :)

Memoirs of a Morrocan-Zanzibari Wedding

In Dubai, it's all about who you know.

Your connections can mean massive hook ups -  I mean - of course, in a professional sense.

Friends are your key to jobs, apartments, visas, and all sort of opportunities.
Sometimes, even weddings. Morrocan-Zanzibari Weddings.

Let me paint a scene for you.

It's around 4:00 pm in Dubai International Airport, Terminal 1, which looks and feels, by the way, like a Las Vegas casino. If you've never been to Vegas, imagine marble floors, multi-story ceilings pillars, and fake indoor palm trees.

I just step off a plane from Pakistan, where I've been for the last two weeks, and I'm in Dubai for one day before taking the 15-hour flight back to the states. I'm expecting my friend to pick me up and take me to her home, where I plan to have a nice hot shower, un-pack and repack, then promptly fall asleep.

Instead, I'm greeted by my host in a pair of 5-inch heals, and she says, "Welcome back, do you wanna go to a wedding?"

So a coworker's friend's friend's daughter was getting married, and hosting an immaculate party at one of the upscale hotels in Dubai. If course, this being Dubai, we were not the only foreigners there. Neither the couple nor the guests were from the region. The bride was from Zanzibar, and the groom was from Morocco. Both, I heard, were now living in London.

The ballroom

guests lining up to dance

This particular wedding function was an all-female post-wedding reception,  lasting from 2:00 pm until 10:00 pm. Apparently the wedding ceremony itself had taken place that previous night, and on the following day the are single-sex segregated events to celebrate.
 When we arrived at 5:30 the bride and groom had not even shown up yet. Instead, guests feasted on the buffet and danced for another two hours.

I liked being at a party of all women. After enduring cat calls and suggestive glances from practically every man on the street in Dubai, it was very relaxing to being in an all-women environment.
It was also nice because, instead of being surrounded by women in black abayas, I actually got to see what they were wearing underneath! When women entered the party, the would be covered in black head to toe, but once inside the ballroom they would remove their abayas and head scarves and drape them over the chairs. Underneath they wore the most beautiful and exquisite gowns I have ever seen. Some of their gowns were also extremely sexy and revealing. I'm talking skin-tight, full cleavage exposed, mesh-fabric-with-pasties-kind of revealing.
Too bad I didn't get a picture of that...

some women did leave their headscarfs on

abayas draped oer chairs

food from the buffet

the bride enters with her entourage

When the bride and groom arrived they entered the room followed by a procession, like a king and queen. They were then both seated on a stage and watched a belly-dancing show. Later on gifts were presented to them, and the guests continued to dance. Finally, for only a few minutes, the bride stepped down off the stage and danced with her friends in the crowd.

Honestly, it did not look very fun to be a bride  at this ceremony, sitting on that stage in silence. She did not have a chance to eat the food, and she could not walk around and mingle like I could with the crowd. It seemed way more fun to be a guest.

I absolutely loved the bride's dress and hijab. She looked like an exquisite queen. I didn't know that head coverings could be so elaborate until I saw her. True to hijab, she had her hair covered, and was wearing a loose-fitting robe which showed no skin. And she looked amazing.

Just before the couple left, they brought out a huge cake, and proceeded to cut the cake with a long sword. This looked very cumbersome, but it must have been a tradition. I had been eyeing the cake for a while, and was eager to sink my teeth into it.

To my great dismay however, the cake was so rich that it tasted like a stick of butter, rather than a cake. It was also very dry.

a dry, buttery cake

This wedding, like all events in Dubai, was an amalgamation of culture.
A bride from Zanzibar in a Moroccan dress, with a Moroccan groom, flies from her home in London to her wedding site in Dubai with her mother's Zanzibari friends. A Nigerien-Brazillian American who is a friend-of-a-friend shows up to the reception, and brings along her Greek-American friend who just stepped off a plane from Pakistan. The two friends dance until 9:00 pm, eat cake, then catch a ride home from a female police officer who drives them through the sandstorm to their apartment.

Dubai, I will miss you, not in spite of your randomness, your craziness, your spontaneity...
but because of it.

Dubai: Know Before You Go

In the spirit of chronicling  my adventures in Dubai, I thought I would share some of my most important tips and advice for future travelers. 

1. You need a car.

Transportation in Dubai is probably the most annoying thing about the city. Let's look at our options:

-Walking: Yeah right. In 140 degree heat?  You learn pretty quickly after arriving that nothing is walking distance in Dubai, except for  two stores in the same mall, and even then it may be a thirty minutes walk if they are on opposite sides of the mall. This is a big city, and it is spread out with not a lot in between.

- Bicycling: Also impracticable. No bike routes, and people drive crazy, so good luck not getting hit by a car. Also, the heat and sand storms make this a particularly unattractive option.

- Metro: Dubai actually has a nice and reasonably priced train system, but it won't take you everywhere, and it is not the fastest way of navigating the city.

- Taxis: Probably the most popular method of transportation, second to a private vehicle. Taxis are reasonably priced, but it can be hard to catch one. If you are in an unpopulated part of town, taxis may be few and far between, but if you are in a busy spot like a mall, you may have to wait in an insanely long line for a cab. 

the line for a taxi at Dubai Mall

2. If you are a woman, or closely resemble a woman, you will be hit on relentlessly.

Dubai definitely gets a place on the wall of shame for poor behavior on the part of its male population. Regardless of your looks, age, or how conservatively you are dressed, you will be hollered at from car window,s propositioned for sex on street corners, and even proposed marriage in line at McDonalds. Every day, at least once an hour. 

Men here seem to lack all forms of respect and decorum when it comes to speaking to females.  I am used to seeing this behavior of men in larger cities around the world, but only if a woman is young, attractive, and scantily clad. In Dubai, if she is a woman, she is fair game. 

The things I have heard coming out of men's mouths in Dubai is stuff you would expect to hear in prison, but don't worry, for the most part, this cooing and hollering is harmless - annoying - but harmless. It is very unlikely that any of these men are potential criminals, so there is no need to worry about becoming the victim of anythings besides a trashy comment. 

At best, you will be hollered at from car windows, that is, if you are actually on the street for  more than 5 minutes (most people don't venture outside in this country, see point 1). At worst, you could find yourself in the center of an international feud, like I did on my first night in Dubai. Basically, I was at a multinational gathering at the home of a British national in Dubai, and a very inebriated Emirati man began hitting on me. Coming to my rescue was an Iranian, who told the man I was married (I'm not married - technically, but close enough), and it's a big sin to hit on a married woman in this culture. The Emirati man and Iranian man began to fight in Arabic, over whether or not I was available to be hit on, because on one hand I am married, but on the other hand, I couldn't be married, because "what kind of married woman would travel alone." You think I had any say in this conversation? Not a word....

3. Want to brush up on your Arabic? Don't bother. 

This is not the place to practice Arabic, or to even begin learning it. 90% of Dubai's residents are foreign, and most are not from the Gulf region. Because practically none of the locals work regular jobs, it is unlikely that you will ever have to interact with an Arabic speaker. When I was in Dubai, the languages I really felt I needed were Urdu (for the Pakistani cab drivers), and Tagalog (for the Filipino waiters).

4. You will not mingle with locals. 

This is true, unless you have foreign friends who have local friends and they provide the introduction. Otherwise, you will quickly learn that the only Emiraties you are likely to meet are the immigration officers at the airport. Most Emiraties don't work regular jobs like, well, most of us do. You will not see them serving food, driving cars, counting cash at the bank, or  practicing medicine (I have seen the paramedics there - no Emiraties).  You will however, see them shopping and lounging around Starbucks....all day. 

5. Ladies, cover up. 

It's the law! That's right, even if you are foreign, you are expected to comply with local laws. This does not mean that you need to practice hijab or wear an Abaya (it's not Saudi Arabia, after all) but you should respect the local culture and dress modestly. 

In my time there, I did see foreign (ehem, British) women wearing mini dresses and shorts in the malls, and I felt embarrassed for them. In a club, however, anything goes. 

Dress code at Dubai mall

6. Drink lots of water - but not tap water. 

Being in such a hot climate will dehydrate you. At first, you may feel that you are just hungrier than normal, however, it's not hunger, it's thirst, and you need to treat it seriously. 

Carry a bottle of water with you everywhere, and never drink the tap water.

7. Don't photograph the women. 

I'm not sure where this rule is written down, if anywhere, but almost as soon as you arrive in Dubai someone will kindly tell you not to photograph  women in abayas. If you are from a region of the world where abayas are very rare, you may be very, very tempted to photograph a scene in Sephora where every woman's face is covered.

Don't do it. 

Unless you can do it like me, sneakily...

beachwear in Dubai

8. Beware sand storms. 

On my last night in Dubai, I had the honor horror of experiencing one of the grossest and most annoying natural  phenomena in the world: sand storms. Five minutes outside and you'll be practically buried. With  my face, mouth, and eyes covered, I stepped outside the taxi and by the time I reached the door in twenty feet, there was sand in my mouth, eyes, under my clothes...ok that's as much as I'm going to say. Gross. 

When there is a sand storm the city is paralyzed. No body steps outside and business ceases to a halt. Glad there are not too many of those.

that's not cloudy - that's sandy!

What to do I buy in Dubai?

Well, not much.
Fortunately, or unfortunately, I exercised a bit of restraint on this trip. Dubai is really a tax-free shopping paradise. From the air-conditioned super malls like Dubai Mall or Mall of the Emirates, to the bazaars of Karama, there are  things to buy at all prices.
In my case, I was heading to Pakistan that next week, so in anticipation of that trip, I saved all my excess cash and stuck to a super tight budget.

My first purchase was a Starbucks UAE mug. My partner's sister is obsessed with collecting and trading Starbucks mugs, which got me onto the idea that I ought to start a small collection of mugs to represent the places I have been. Surprisingly, not many Starbucks actually sold these mugs. At the gorgeous Starbucks in Jumeirah, I found this mug from the Emirates, but it was impossible to find the Dubai mug. Impossible.

At the Dubai Airport in Terminal 1, they sell Sharjah and Abu Dhabi mugs, but I didn't even go to those Emirates, so I felt kind of silly coming home with those mugs.

One of my few and favorite purchases was a recommendation from my Dubai expat friend: scented oil. When she first moved to Dubai, she sat next to a woman on the train who smelled amazing, and the woman told her that she bought all her oil from this shop in the Diera City Center. 

So, in search of this practical souvenir, I made that little trip to Diera, and mixed my own special scent from their selection of oils. My original scent is actually a combination of two of the store's own  creations.  This oil is very potent, so I only use a few drops on my wrists and neck. This hugh bottle, of my own original scent, only costs about $40 USD. 
A deal! 

Lastly, I usually don't like to buy touristy items, but after visiting Pakistan and seeing tiny Burj Khalifas and Burj al Arabs in everyone's living room,  I decided that our bookshelf at home needed a miniature Burj, I picked up this figurine at the Airport just before boarding a plane home. 
Now the Burj Khalifa has a home on our "philosophy" book shelf in our living room in Portland. 

Photo Diary: Best of Dubai

What I ate in Dubai

More like, what didn't I eat in Dubai. 

I knew this city would have a bit of everything, being one of the most international places on earth. 

My list of food spots mostly consisted of Starbucks, McDonalds, and one afternoon tea experience, but here is the recap for my Dubai eats:

1. Food I wished I had, but didn't:  Champagne Brunch  

Brunches, as I learned, are one of the staples of Dubai. Many places offer the sumptuous   feasts that make the Las Vegas buffets look sparse. Dubai also has something I haven't seen in Vegas: alcohol buffets. Reminiscent of the nomihodai "all-you-can-drink" hours in Japan, these alcohol buffets keep the booze coming till you are passed out of the floor and then some. 

2. Food I had, but wished I didn't:  one too many milks from Al Sham's

Speaking of too much of a good thing, my first day in Dubai I took a walk across the sandy pavement to a little market know as Al Sham's, and in my excitement and jet-laggedness, I purchased no fewer than 12 bottles of various kinds of milk. Rose milk, cardamon milk, mango milk, strawberry milk, etc. 

While this was mostly cool, let me be the first to say, not every flavor tastes good as a milk, and certainly not after the 12th bottle. 

3. What should have been on the list: Brunch Buffet

While I was here, I had the privilege of eating at two brunches, which are really just buffets.  In Dubai, brunch is a bit later than in the states, lasting from noon to 4:00 or 5:00 in some places. But really, you can find buffets at any time of the day and night. My favorite memory involved my friend and I searching for a Thai buffet at 10:00 pm on a Thursday night. 

After three metro stops, scanning through one edition of TimeOut Dubai magazine, and running into a surprising cool Israeli DJ, we managed to find a Thai buffet in Wafi mall. 

It was amazing.

4. Biggest surprise: Iranian and Lebanese food

I have never been a huge fan of hummus and kebobs at restaurants. Maybe this is because as a Greek, I grew up eating these food every day at home, so going to a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean restaurant was akin to eating inferior versions of my dad's cooking. So, you might imagine my surprise when I went to Dubai, and had some of the most delicious kebobs and shawarma I have ever tasted.

5. Most delicious meal: Chicken kebobs on my first night in Dubai

When I arrived in Dubai at 7:00 pm, my friend and host graciously bought the Marhaba service for me, which whisked me through the airport and in 15 minutes from the time I stepped off the plane, I was in her car, sitting in Dubai traffic. By the time I got home and unpacked, it was around 9:00 pm. I was exhausted, and definitely not hungry, but my host suggested we order some food for delivery. 

In Dubai, you can have anything delivered to your home, no minimums, no restrictions, no delivery fees. You can call up Al Sham's and have one bottle of cardamom milk delivered to your door at 10:00 pm if you wish. Dry cleaning, toilet paper, if it can be bought and carried, it can be delivered to your door, free of charge. 

So on this night, my friend ordered some chicken kebobs, with mushrooms, pita, french fries, garlic sauce, hummus, and fresh vegetables. 

This simple meal was my best memory in Dubai, not only because the food was good, but because it was such a Dubai experience. 

Dubai is often characterized as an amalgamation of cultures. So there I was,  a Greek-American,  who had just gotten off a plane from Seattle, standing in the kitchen of my Brazilian-Nigerien-American friend, who just moved to Dubai and didn't have a dining room table or eating utensils. So we ate our Lebanese food from paper plates with plastic forks, while standing up in the kitchen. Two foreigners in a foreign land. 

And one of those mundane moments in life, suddenly became meaningful. 

Other foods I ate during my time in Dubai:

plate from Thai buffet

Italian food

traditional Arabian food 

English breakfast at the airport